The Brazilian Prostitution Gauntlet

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil • August 2013 • Length of Read: 6 Minutes

The following extract has been adapted from my self-published paperback travel book, Crobs Abroad: A Scot’s Misadventures with a Backpack. It follows my mishaps across five different continents as I get comatose drunk on the Thai islands; kicked out of a Hungarian lap dancing club; kidnapped by the mayor of a Peruvian city; and trek for a week across the Moroccan Sahara. If you enjoy this post, then please visit my online bookshop for more details.

There was a little café on the corner block of our hostel. It was tacky: plastic chairs, plastic tables, plastic. A bald man from a neighbouring table kept glancing over. He was also foreigner at first sight. A true gringo. Unlike most tourists we'd met along our travels however, he was clearly apt at conversing with the locals. Sat opposite was a pretty little Brazilian girl who couldn't have yet matured beyond her teenage years. It was surprising therefore that he was clearly and shamelessly more interested in eavesdropping on our uncensored drivel, chuckling away and paying minimal attention to his date. She sat there stolidly, pushing a straw around her glass; head towards the picnic-blanket table cover so any possibility of eye-contact could be avoided.

“Are you guys from New Zealand?” he called over in a strong American West Coast accent. We glanced at each other perplexed, Screen and Skills both sporting Scottish rugby jerseys and talking about the potential marketing opportunity for importing Irn-Bru as a competitor to Inka Cola.

“Scotland bro. You’re American I presume?”

“Ah, my bad guys. Yeah straight from Cali. I’m down here to enjoy the beautiful woman and the beautiful weather.”

Rick was a handsome thirty-something. A real extrovert with a rugged Jason Statham look about him. A computer programmer who could work remotely so decided to split his time 20%/80% between Rio and his hometown of LA. The Pareto Principle in full effect. Over the previous six years of hopping back and forth, he’d become fluent in both Portuguese and in the customs of the city. If it weren’t for his pale complexion one would have been none the wiser of his real origins.

“You lads hit up the whorehouses yet?” he drawled, changing the conversation in a blasé manner and almost shocked at our lack of response. “Aww, you’re missing out boys if you haven’t. 300 Real (£80) will see you through the weekend no bother. And they’re classy, not the dregs and red lights you’ll find in Amsterdam. It’s done properly here.”

We peered over at his date, slurping on the remains of her smoothie and shifting uncomfortably in her camping chair. Whether it was the topic of conversation or the numbing of the plastic was hard to tell.

“Don’t mind her troops,” Rick laughed. “Doesn’t speak a word of English. She’s actually one of those girls herself.”

The penny suddenly dropped. The uncomfortable silence. The lack of eye contact. Rick was treating a prostitute to dinner.

“Classy, you see? Twice a year I get my mates to fly down to Rio for the week and crash at the apartment. I make them run The Gauntlet for their troubles. You boys fancy giving it a shot?”

The gauntlet, as Rick had so aptly named it, was his idea of the ultimate night out in Rio. A harlotry pub crawl if you will. His pals would hit up five or six bars and an equal number of brothels, the last man standing is the one who…well you get the picture. Originally thinking this was an elaborate joke we played along until it became clear that Rick was being completely serious. He was taking his date to the cinema after dinner and then wanted us to join him on a night of debauchery never to be forgotten. His enthusiasm and passion were winning us over. Unsure at first, we were warming to this prospect, however (perhaps fortunately), we didn’t even have 300 Real between the five of us. Skills was pumped up and suggested that he could get some money wired from home and we could pay him back. This was met by a sharp prod from Endy under the table, evidently entertained by the American but not willing to accept his proposal.

“Come on guys, it’s completely safe. They are all checked weekly and you don't just get a lay for your money. Don’t think of them as brothels, more like miniature Playboy Mansions. You get a robe and slippers, can watch movies, and sip champagne, all whilst a host of beautiful Latinas pleasure you to your heart’s and part’s content. I have to head now or we'll miss the start of the picture. Take my email and drop me a line when you get internet access.”

He handed over a plain white business card with his information, gave a salute, and then left arm-in-arm with his date as we struggled to contain our smiles. A comedic computer whiz with a beaming grin and an addictive personality only succeeded by his addiction to ladies of the night. We e-mailed him the next day out of sheer curiosity. How could one not?

Crashing A Hooters' Bikini Contest

Toronto, Canada • May 2014 • Length of Read: 12 Minutes

Photo Credit: Hooters.ca

Photo Credit: Hooters.ca

The following extract has been adapted from my self-published paperback travel book, Crobs Abroad: A Scot’s Misadventures with a Backpack. It follows my mishaps across five different continents as I get comatose drunk on the Thai islands; kicked out of a Hungarian lap dancing club; kidnapped by the mayor of a Peruvian city; and trek for a week across the Moroccan Sahara. If you enjoy this post, then please visit my online bookshop for more details.

I’d arranged to meet Aaron and Alfie for dinner that evening on Adelaide Street and whilst they went for a couple of apartment viewings I took the liberty of catching up on a precious few hours’ sleep. The boys had managed to ‘win’ some one-year working visas in the lottery that is the Canadian immigration application process and were staying at the hostel whilst they searched for suitable employment and a cheap, but handy, dwelling. Interestingly, in Toronto at this time all drawn up rental agreements required full payment to the landlord for the month in which the entry date was signed. This meant that whether you were moving in on the 1st June or the 29th for example, the entire June rental fee was payable. As my visit to Canada fell in the last week of a month in 2014 this meant that a large number of the hostel’s guests were taking the same approach as Aaron and Alfie, all with the plan of checking out and moving in come the 1st of the next month.

Things were quite competitive because of this, but I was still amazed to see how many people were looking at moving in with one another having only met weeks, or even days, prior. I suppose that’s the mindset of the traveller, though. Someone who is always willing to create friendships and dive into things just for the curiosity of what lies ahead. ‘What if…’ not a phrase to be found in many of their dictionaries or phrasebooks, regardless of the language it’s written in.

Come 6:30 pm I was fully recharged and strolled my way yet again downtown towards our meeting place, a little pub opposite the restaurant we’d unanimously agreed upon. Sipping on a frosty one whilst waiting for the lads to show I looked over at the sign above the building as the busty waitresses swarmed the tables in their tight white T-shirts and infamous orange hot-pants. If the accompanying knee-high stockings weren’t enough to stimulate my attention, then what was spelled out in old cinema lettering above the doorway most definitely was.

[7 PM - HOOTERS BIKINI CONTEST]

“Signed on the dotted line then and there before anyone else could get their stinking paws on it,” beamed Aaron as the boys rounded the corner. “We are now officially residents of this glorious city.”

“Brilliant. And we can’t have you living here never having gone to Hooters now can we?” I chuckled, pointing at the sign.

“What a way to celebrate. Things are just falling right into place.”

Hooters was bursting at the seams as we joined the queue behind some creepy Chinese dude who clearly had no idea how a ticketing process worked. When he therefore inevitably got into a row with the maitre’d over the cost of entry the Liverpudlians and I was happy to throw our $10 cover at her and swoop in to grab a front row bench before the show started. Sitting down, I ordered a pitcher of beer from our lovely server Annie and took in the surrounding phenomenon. The 98% male audience was on tenterhooks as an announcer climbed up on stage to explain how the competition would work. There would be three rounds: bikini; swimsuit; and evening wear, with a winner being crowned at the end of it all based on the decision by an expert panel of judges. I looked over at the four fat, hairy, pale, middle-aged men and wondered what their credentials were. They could have been talent scouts for a high-end modelling agency for all I knew, but a more educated guess would be that they probably spend a little too much time locked in their bedrooms with the blinds shut and high definition porn on repeat.

As Annie came back for our food orders a young guy of similar age sat down on his own at the bench opposite; a scraggly beard and fashionable beanie hat not quite enough to mask his ruggedly handsome face. Joseph had arrived in Canada from Wales, via Monaco, and was there to support his girlfriend who was competing in the contest. In yet another ‘coincidence’ it turned out that he actually graduated from the same University course as Aaron and Alfie did, only in the following year, and that they had a host of mutual friends. It was agreed that they’d also all been in attendance at some of the same flat parties before but just hadn’t bumped into one another.

“Man this is sick,” exclaimed Joseph, slapping his palm on the table. “I move to Toronto to be with my girlfriend, not knowing another person in this city, and randomly bump into two guys that I went to University with at a Hooters bikini contest. You just can’t script this stuff.”

“Yeah, it’s crazy how things like this work out,” I nodded with a grin.

“Hey, we’re all having a little post-party celebration after this. You guys should definitely come along, and that’s more a polite request than a question.”

“You don’t have to ask us twice bro.”

“Awesome. Currently, it’s just me and the girls so it would be good to have some male company for a change. As nice as they are and all I do sometimes miss the lad banter.”

“Have you managed to find a job since coming over here then?” Aaron asked.

“Not for a lack of trying,” sighed Joseph.

“I know what you mean,” agreed Alfie. “Aaron just got a part-time job as a kitchen porter at Sneaky Dees up on College Street, but I’m going to keep browsing for something more permanent. Craigslist seems to have some decent odd-jobs though if you’re really scraping for coppers.”

“I’ve been scouring that and Gumtree but it’s difficult to tell what’s legit. Also, some of the stuff is pretty freaky. I came across an ad the other day that was offering $400 cash for you to masturbate and ejaculate on camera.”

“Would your face be shown?”

“Yeah, it was a whole torso effort. Not that I was thinking about applying for it anyway. Curiosity gets the better of you sometimes though when trolling the web and you can find yourself clicking on some weird shit without even realising.”

“True that. I don’t know how many times I’ve gone online just to quickly check my e-mails and ended up being still at the computer a half hour later scrolling through galleries of people with bad tattoos.”

To get the show underway the girls all strode out in catwalk formation down the stage which had been erected especially for the event. Something that might have also been ‘erect’ was the bizarre Korean pensioner who whipped out a professional camera (complete with tripod) and started taking photos like he was on safari. Despite how many elegant birds were prancing about, a 30x zoom lens with a shutter speed comparable to that of the rounds fired by a Gatling gun seemed a little unnecessary. Joseph’s girlfriend was gorgeous and put up a staunch performance to appear third overall, but ‘contestant number 3’ was undoubtedly the queen of the evening and the judges all agreed. She was absolutely shredded from head to toe and either had a serious squat routine or had been prescribed some crazy anabolic steroids.

Following the show, Joseph took us over to meet his other half and the rest of the girls that had been performing. One with short hair was so off her face on blow that she appeared to think she was in the middle of a lads’ mag photo shoot. Wrapping her arms around each of the far-too-willing punters she would hold a sexy pose for 2-3 seconds, presumably until the ‘camera flash’ in her mind went off. I looked at the mass of creepiness funnelling out into the street. It didn’t even bear thinking about what they were going home to do.

The girls were all dolled up in their evening dresses from the final pageant round and with the adrenaline rush from the event still at a peak they were pumped to be heading out, especially a tall brunette called Laura. When her boyfriend finally arrived from a gig he’d been playing we all went round the corner to a pub and ordered some pitchers. Mick was Australian by birth and like Joseph had decided to settle in Toronto for the time being as a result of his newish relationship and the strong bar scene. He was one-half of a folk duo and provided guitar and backing vocals to his female accompaniment’s soaring pitch. He also drank like an Aussie, immediately sculling the pint of beer placed in front of him by Aaron on return from the bar.

Across the table from me was a strange looking Asian guy, already on his second pitcher and trying desperately to get the attention of the short-haired Ms Blow who was still running at Mach 1. Ali was a self-professed drug dealer and proud of the matter. Despite my complete lack of interest, his greater lack of social queues led to me being excitedly shown photos of the cannabis farm he’d been cultivating back home. I couldn’t quite figure out what game he was trying to play so called “bullshit” right to his face. He left me alone and departed soon after when his supposed mistress gave him the cold shoulder. Or perhaps it was because we were heading to a different bar called The Officers Club? The name alone giving our not-so law abiding citizen the chills.

As we huddled around a wooden table in the smoking area at the back of the new venue I turned to Annie, our waitress who had joined the party straight after her shift had finished.

“That girl who won,” I pondered, “She was so well-defined physically it was scary. What does she do outside of work?”

“That is what she does for work,” replied Annie bitterly. “She’s a body builder. We were short of entrants so they got some additional people to fill the lineup who aren’t actually Hooters employees. She doesn’t even go here.”

“Seems like it should have been a void competition then, or that the prize should have at least gone to the runner-up?” I mused. “But on a separate note, you just quoted Mean Girls didn’t you?”

“Yeah totally, especially since the prize was an all-expenses-paid trip to Miami – no shitting you. And on that separate note, yes I did just quote Mean Girls. Good pick up on the reference,” she winked.

This glimmer of sexual tension was immediately broken by a random Chinese dude in a purple jacket. At some point, he had shuffled his way into the party and was now rolling a little tablet around the table.

“All you need is a little bit crushed into your drink and you’ll be sorted for any eventuality that may befall you this fine evening,” piped the aged punk-rocker to his left in such a wavering accent that it could have originated anywhere from Shetland to Southampton. I didn’t have time to ask where he hailed from however before Ms Blow leaned over the table, grabbed the pill from the Chinese dude’s grasp, and swallowed it whole.

“Does anybody know what effect Viagra has on females?” queried one of the girls at the table, looking at her colleague with a mixture of disgust and bemusement.

“It makes their clitoris pop out instantly and become absolutely enormous,” said the aged punk-rocker with a wry grin.

Before the conversation got any weirder I turned to Aaron and Alfie and gave a slight nod towards the exit. Their facial responses were those of agreement so the three of us bid a kind farewell to the Hooters’ cast, exchanged details, and made some rough plans to meet each other that following weekend for a festival happening on Centre Island. I’d left the glorious city behind by this future date, but keeping true to their word Aaron and Alfie did meet up with Joseph, Mick, Laura and co., and have remained close friends ever since.

Six months later, in fact, I would log onto the internet from a beach hut in Thailand to see photos from a road trip the Liverpudlians and the Aussie had taken together along the entirety of Route 66. Culminating in a Robert DeNiro-style fancy dress party in Las Vegas, Taxi Driver’s Travis Bickle, The Deer Hunter’s Michael, and Cape Fear’s Max Cady even went as far as getting matching tattoos to commemorate the experience. To think none of this would have happened had we not been sitting at that very table, in that very restaurant, at that very time.

The Escape From Lima

Lima, Peru • July 2013 • Length of Read: 10 Minutes

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The following extract has been adapted from my self-published paperback travel book, Crobs Abroad: A Scot’s Misadventures with a Backpack. It follows my mishaps across five different continents as I get comatose drunk on the Thai islands; kicked out of a Hungarian lap dancing club; kidnapped by the mayor of a Peruvian city; and trek for a week across the Moroccan Sahara. If you enjoy this post, then please visit my online bookshop for more details.

Flight AA2153 touched down on Peruvian soil at 04:30; five minutes ahead of schedule despite the pilot having attempted to find every pocket of turbulence littering the Tropic of Cancer that ghastly evening. I was knackered from the northern-to-southern hemisphere crossing and wanted nothing more than to just curl up in a ball and snooze for the rest of the night. To do this, however, meant first finding some form of accommodation. Endy’s guidebook recommended a hostel called The Point, and with no public transport running at that purgatory time between night and day we agreed to take the financial hit and split a cab.

Sleepwalking towards the taxi rank Skills pointed out that it may first be a good idea to withdraw some local currency, but in crowding round the beat-up ATM at the exit to Lima Airport’s baggage reclaim hall we came to the stark realisation that nobody had a clue what the exchange rate was.

“What are you thinking Endy?” I asked in hope, pointing at the various options available. “200 Soles? 500 Soles? 3000 Soles?”

“Well, the guidebook says that it’s S/.2.65 to USD$1.”

“And when was that published?”

“Eh, 1997.”

“Right, does anyone know roughly what Peruvian inflation has averaged out at over the past 15 years?”

“……”

“Fuck it, S/.500 it is.”

Upon leaving the terminal a friendly woman immediately approached us offering just the service we were after. How convenient. In broken English, she told us that two taxis would cost S/.400 and that this was ‘muy razonable’ - mighty reasonable. As she plugged this great deal, however, we couldn’t help but notice the giant poster in the background depicting lines of polished Mercedes; fresh from a full valet service and driven by men wearing coattails and wide-brimmed hats. Something about this image made us think that the service might be a little too high-calibre for our straight-out-of-University budget and style. Opting to turn down the kind lady’s offer we instead trudged outside to a line of dilapidated cars where a cabbie, who could have been mistaken for a Don Corleone tribute act, said he could do the trip for S/.50. No matter how dodgy the situation appeared to be we couldn’t argue that this wasn’t a stonking deal.

Bundling into the back we were scared to ask what other services he could provide for a similar fee; the combination of his mafia dress code and blacked out station-wagon giving a hearty tip-of-the-cap to the opening scene from Goodfellas. ‘If we are to become embroiled in any protection racketeering during our outings along South America’s Gringo Trail,’ I thought to myself, ‘then this may well be the guy who could save our backs.’ As concerned as we were, however, after a half-hour of winding up and down Pacific Ocean cliffs we safely arrived at our hostel and piled out of the squashed four-seater. Evidently, the required people-to-seatbelt ratio of taxis doesn’t apply to wannabe gangsters. We had flights booked out of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil for two months’ time, and until then the continent was ours to explore. As it turned out this would primarily be done by hopping from pub to bar to club, with some wild misadventures thrown in to keep us on our toes.

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Awaking the following lunchtime in a groggy haze I stumbled from the top bunk towards the bathroom where I bumped into a man wearing a radiation suit and carrying Ghostbusters equipment. Pausing to watch I was slightly disappointed when it was not the Stay-Puff Marshmallow Man he was trying to fend off however but simply some cockroaches. I went for a piss and made a mental note not to use the hostel’s kitchen at any point. Having freshened-up I began to feel a thirst coming on. Initially confused as to why the reception fridge wouldn't open after almost yanking the door off, I went a little red when the girl behind the desk handed me a key for the massive padlock strapped across its front. In fits of laughter she then pointed me in the way of the supermarket, and with the others still to stir I headed out for my first taste of Lima by daylight.

Before embarking on my South American adventure one of the main pieces of advice provided by a well-travelled uncle was to get in and out of Lima as quickly as possible, and meandering around the sewage infested back alleys of the Barranco district I could see why. In only two blocks I passed a burned-out police car and numerous wild dogs whose growls and stares made me extremely thankful for the rabies injections I'd paid a small fortune to get. My sense of smell was also nearly obliterated from the stench of urine puddles that turned walking the pavements of the Peruvian capital into one endless game of hop-scotch.

Picking up a tuna baguette I returned to the hostel. The others had finally arisen and, despite my protests, were keen to have a look around the neighbourhood themselves. We only got as far as the garden gate, this time, however, when glancing to our right, a kid came flying out a side-street on a skateboard only to be T-boned by an oncoming car. Before we could even comprehend what has just occurred, and as quick as the crash had happened, the boy then stood up; dusted himself off; and legged it, leaving a 14-year-old shaped crime scene imprint in the bonnet of the busted hatchback. The driver got out from behind the wheel looking absolutely perplexed, and as a security guard from a nearby building came over to analyse the situation we quickly headed back inside before being asked to give a statement and testimonial.

Playing some table tennis in the security of the property we met Luke from New York who was also only spending one day in Lima before heading off to the heights of Cusco to catch up with some of his Israeli pals from College. Over pizza at a nearby restaurant, he told us of the inductions undertaken by those pledging for his fraternity, some notable challenges including downing a ‘fish pint’ and participating in an ‘elephant walk’. I would best describe this latter term to those readers not familiar with such proceedings as a ‘naked homosexually-intimate conga’. Grown men kneeling down on all fours and grasping the penis of the person in front of them through their legs whilst a fellow ‘pledger’ does the same behind. I couldn’t help but see Luke in a different light following this admission. Neil, the Dutch Barman who had served up the food, kept us entertained in a different manner for the remainder of the evening with convincing theories as to how thermometric and geological metamorphosis could explain the construction of The Pyramids and Stonehenge. He also ensured we were kept topped up on Cusquena, the local beer. When not pouring pints he operated tours of the continent and as last orders were called said that we definitely needed to visit the ‘sexy woman’ when in Cusco. Despite our desperate pleas, however, he wouldn’t divulge any further information as to what this might entail.

Woken up the next morning by a regiment of the Peruvian Army marching down the street we bode farewell to Luke and headed to the shops to buy some supplies for our flight. Gadams and I also took this opportunity to find ourselves a touring mascot and entering a dingy shopping mall our prayers were answered in the form of a stuffed giraffe who was quickly christened George. Peering out the taxi window on the way to the airport that afternoon our new pet was treated to a deconstructed mobile circus performance that the whole city was seemingly involved in. When stopped at traffic lights and crossroads we witnessed juggling unicyclists, fire breathers, and a man pulling a wheelbarrow full of wheel-less wheelbarrows; shooed away street vendors trying to sell us refreshments for the show; and admired the severe patriotism expressed through every political building being draped with the red and white vertical slithers of the Peruvian flag as if a blanket had fallen from the sky. For the grand finale, our driver almost ripped his exhaust open as he pulled into the airport over an enormous speed bump. Never mind sleeping policemen, this thing was the size of a small rhino. Despite our short time there, upon boarding the 55-minute flight to Cusco we were not sorry to see the back of the Peruvian capital. When anyone now asks me what the best thing to do in Lima is I tend to echo my uncle and respond with the five letter word: leave.

Soaking Up Salta & The Argentinian North

Salta, Argentina • August 2013 • Length of Read: 12 Minutes

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The following extract has been adapted from my self-published paperback travel book, Crobs Abroad: A Scot’s Misadventures with a Backpack. It follows my mishaps across five different continents as I get comatose drunk on the Thai islands; kicked out of a Hungarian lap dancing club; kidnapped by the mayor of a Peruvian city; and trek for a week across the Moroccan Sahara. If you enjoy this post, then please visit my online bookshop for more details.

Unlike the Bolivian taxis which took as many people as would fit as long as the doors could be fully closed, Argentinian motorists were clearly more compliant with the Highway Code requirement for all passengers to wear seatbelts. Therefore, we arrived at Loki Salta in two separate cars. Each meter was frozen at 105 Pesos (£11) having been ticking over like the second hand on a clock as we blasted along the highway, past the airport, and into the rural suburbs on our journey from the terminal. This seemed like an unusually remote place for a hostel to be located but we would find out later that a single bus ticket to the town centre cost just 3 Pesos (£0.30) per person. A smiley American with dyed red hair and piercings met us in the car park. Robin was the manager of the hostel and seemed a little overly excited for our arrival.

“Hey, I take it you are the Scottish boys that phoned this morning? Welcome to Salta, we’ve had a fine spell of weather as of late.”

“Thanks very much, we’re glad there were some rooms available at such short notice. We’ve set foot in both the Cusco and La Paz sister hostels already and the vibes were great.”

“No worries about that. Apart from the on-site staff we actually only have two other people staying here at the moment; Australian guys about your age. We only fully-opened last month and are still trying to find our feet.”

“Aw OK, it’s just that when we phoned this morning it seemed like there was a massive party still underway?” queried Endy.

“Not quite,” sniggered Robin. “We’ve been quite low on guest numbers the past couple of weeks so when people call we crank up the music full volume in the bar to pretend that the place isn’t actually a ghost town. A horrible joke, I know.”

“At least you’ve come clean I suppose,” reasoned Screen. “We’ve been living pretty rough the last week so it would actually be quite nice to just have a couple of days to chill out and recharge the batteries.”

“Well, we can certainly cater for that. There’s a football pitch over there; we have snooker, table tennis, and a bean bag cinema inside; there are hammocks strung out on the patio to lounge in, and an incredible menu of home-cooked dishes to choose from.”

“Awesome,” smiled Gadams, “and what about swimming?” he asked, pointing past the grassy pitch to a hollow bowl.

“Unfortunately, the pool is out of action at the moment; not enough people to justify the expense and all.”

“No worries,” I fake-sobbed. “First things first is to check-in and grab a shower. We do apologise for appearing in such a smelly mess.”

“You aren’t the first and you most certainly won’t be the last. Let me give you a quick tour of the place.”

Robin may have been pulling our legs on the phone that morning, but she most certainly wasn’t lying about the set-up of this hostel being perfectly tailored towards our desires. The main building was a vast open-spaced hanger with a full-length bar on one side. The full-length bay window opposite led out to a hammock-littered patio. Past the football pitch and swimming pool were a collection of modern stone huts that housed the guests, with wild horses galloping around the fenced field yonder. A more tranquil atmosphere I’ve yet to come across for the Argentinian equivalent of only £12 per night. We got our room key, took some much-needed showers, and then sprawled ourselves out on the bean bags for the remainder of the afternoon. A battered copy of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo sat lonely on the bookshelf so I immersed myself in its pages as sports played on the TV behind. Loki Salta was answering to our every need, and things were about to get better.

“What were you guys planning on doing for dinner tonight?” asked Robin suggestively.

“Not too sure yet. We were probably just going to get something here if that’s OK with you?”

“Well, we’ve invited all the staff from another hostel down the road for a barbeque this evening if you fancy joining? We’re all just going to chip in 20 Pesos and then some of the guys will get as much meat and beers from the supermarket as possible. Tristan and Shawn, the Aussie guys I mentioned earlier, are currently in town but they’ll be making their way back for it as well.”

“That sounds absolutely delightful. Count us in.”

Two hours later we were making acquaintance with the boys from down under in a scene that could have been taken from The Great Hall in Harry Potter. The long wooden table at which we were seated groaned under the weight of ribs, steak, and vegetable skewers. The Aussies had been on the road for five months already and were slowly winding their way up the whole American continent. The eventual plan was to secure some working visas in the Canadian mountains when they near-enough ran out of land to explore.

“For me, it started out as just a two week holiday in Cancun,” began Shawn. “Tristan had sold all his belongings beforehand: car; furniture; clothes; the lot. His plan once the rest of our crew had flown back to New South Wales was to get his own ticket to Buenos Aires and then just see where curiosity took him.”

“I originally planned to do the trip alone, but when Shawn broke up with his girlfriend just a couple of weeks before our boys holiday I suggested he join me,” added Tristan. “Hesitant, he hadn’t made any formal decision until we were actually in Mexico, and it wasn’t until the last day that he decided not to board that flight home. We now think it will be about two more years before next setting foot on Australian soil.”

Everyone looked like stuffed turkeys as the plates were cleared and as we brought out the cards to play some drinking games two English hipsters appeared at the reception; confused expressions on their faces. Whereas we’d been offered a full tour of the grounds upon arrival, Alexander and George were immediately thrown by Robin into a game of ‘Fuck the Dealer’ before even having the chance to see their dorm room. In fairness, they were more than happy with this command, and after a few rounds of this ludicrous game were well on their merry way. As the name suggests, the aim is for the participants to get the unlucky person dealing the cards as drunk as possible by guessing correctly the colour, suit, or value of the next card being played. Robin had placed a stein-sized plastic measuring jug in the centre of the table and before each turn players had to pour some of their drink into the rising concoction as their ‘bet’. When the vessel was filled to the brim, whoever was the dealer at that point would have the pleasure of trying to down the mix. That person turned out to be Skills.

“This is going to be a piece of cake,” he drunkenly boasted, never the one to shy away from an ‘alpha male’ situation. Halfway through the game a couple of very cute English girls had also arrived, jumping the total guest residency from two to eleven in just one day, and it was clear he was out to impress. Bottoms up.

Skills started off strong as the cheers from the crowd (including Lucy and Natalie) spurred him on through the first half-litre of the vile mixture. When he got about halfway, however, he started to splutter. The wrenching said it all. The mixture of beer, cider, and fruit juice was about to come straight back up and there was no stopping it. Skills will take to his grave the statement that he did indeed make it to the bathroom on time, but the video footage and vomit stains on his shirt prove otherwise. At least he wasn’t the only one to make a fool of himself. Following this incident, Robin thought it was her duty as the manager of the establishment to finish off the dregs. This only led to her also making a quick dash to the latrines to cough up her BBQ burger and salad. Lucy, Natalie, Alexander, and George all made excuses of being tired and headed for bed; unable to comprehend what they’d just walked into.

I was the first to arise the following morning as usual, and stumbling into the bathroom to brush my teeth was given quite the shock treatment. Staring back at me from the open toilet lid was a creature from the deep. As my vision adjusted to the light, a shit the size of a baby’s arm wearing a boxing glove leered back at me from the pan. There could only be one culprit.

“Gadams,” I yelled, waking the entire utopia. “What the hell have you done in here?”

“Ah yeah, I had a little bit of a sore stomach last night,” he blearily responded.

“They say the equivalent of a man giving birth is like pissing out a whole orange, but this is surely taking it one step too far. How on earth were you even walking around with that log inside you?” I gave the lever a flush but the stool of tree trunk sized dimensions didn’t dislodge. I panicked that it might mutate and start attacking.

“Oh my God man, it was as painful as it looks trust me. I sat for over half an hour with my fingernails scraping the opposing wall; squeezing until I thought an intestine was going to pop out. I must have sweated more in that period than the entire length of the Inca Trail, including the incident we shall no longer speak of.”

“You mean the incident that I’ve thoroughly documented in my journal and am likely to include in a future publication?”

“Fuck. Well, I still don’t feel too great in all honesty; almost like I’m recuperating from an open-wound surgical operation. Would you mind if we extended our stay here for an extra day? Kick a rugby ball about and see what the town centre has to offer or something? I don’t think I could face another day travelling in this state.”

“As long as you allow said incident to be put in writing.”

“No shame. We have a deal. Shake on it?”

“Only if you’ve thoroughly washed your hands…”

Mountain Biking Down The World's Most Dangerous Road

La Paz, Bolivia • August 2013 • Length of Read: 10 Minutes

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The following extract has been adapted from my self-published paperback travel book, Crobs Abroad: A Scot’s Misadventures with a Backpack. It follows my mishaps across five different continents as I get comatose drunk on the Thai islands; kicked out of a Hungarian lap dancing club; kidnapped by the mayor of a Peruvian city; and trek for a week across the Moroccan Sahara. If you enjoy this post, then please visit my online bookshop for more details.

In 1995 the 35-mile sliver of track winding through the mountains of Northern Bolivia from La Paz to Coroico was christened ‘the most dangerous road in the world’ due to the number of fatalities occurring on an annual basis along this main commuter route. Quantifiably, it was estimated the death toll to have been 200-300 persons per year before a more modern route was constructed to replace the officially named North Yungas Road. The new South Yungas Road has since been considered equally as dangerous, however. Imagine squeezing the amount of traffic that is usually present on the trans-American Route 66 highway onto a single-file gravel path teetering on the edge of a 4000m high cliff-face with no barricades protecting the outer edge. Now subject the vehicles to frequent rock slides hammering down from above as a host of unlicensed buses and vans rally past and this is a rough indication of why such tragic carnage occurs. The only rule is that the uphill driver has the right of way, but even this is only loosely abided by and in reality, it is really the larger vehicle that dictates what sort of ‘passing’ occurs.

Unsurprisingly then, when the North Yungas Road was closed tourists flocked in their thousands to attempt the daring descent themselves. Probably the most popular guidebook attraction in the capital, there are dozens of competing companies offering day-long mountain bike packages across a whole pricing spectrum. For those on a shoe-string budget, you could choose to go with a company that gives you no safety gear; no English tuition; and a bike that would be more suited for the paved streets of Amsterdam. On the other hand, premium companies with names such as Altitude, Adrenaline, and Extreme offered packages that included a free lunch; multi-speed suspension bikes; a fully-qualified medic; and take-home, professionally shot, video footage of the entire trip.

“Considering even the most high-end service comes in at less than £50, I think we should go for that,” reasoned my mate Gadams as we sat in our hostel.

“I couldn’t agree more,” nodded Endy. “Despite the cracking cost-saving deal, having bikes with no gears or brakes, meaning that you have to pedal backwards to stop, doesn’t seem like too sensible an idea.”

Just as we were paying our money to the hostel’s tour operator, Carly, a girl who we’d crossed paths with earlier in our travels, popped her head round the reception door.

“I thought I heard some familiar voices.  How are you guys? Survive Lake Titicaca?”

“What a shithole it was,” pronounced Endy, “you made a great decision to stay on the bus and come straight here.”

“So I’ve heard. We’re actually leaving in the next few minutes. The Salt Flats await us to the south. Be sure to let us know how Death Road goes, I’m gutted we never had the time to do it. You do know that the new road is currently closed for construction so the North Road has been re-opened for all through traffic?”

“Eh no, no we didn’t,” I winced meekly. For someone who failed their cycling proficiency test in primary school, this was more and more seeming like a very dangerous prospect indeed.

“Well look forward to a very hairy ride. Is it 8 am they come to pick you up? You boys better get a good night’s sleep under your handlebars.” And with that, she gave a dimpled smile and departed.

The company we had eventually decided to go with was called Overdose, and getting suited up in our protective clothing upon arrival the next morning we couldn’t help but laugh at all the over-the-top, thrill seeking, names plastered over everyone’s shirts and helmets; a thesaurus of ironic synonyms. Looking around, Endy and I decided that there may be a gap in the market for the ‘Leisurely Peddle Biking Corporation’, but have yet to pursue this idea any further. If any reader wishes to take the reins on this project then I’d be more than happy to hand over the name and rights, however.

To break us into the saddles the first mile of the descent was on a fantastically paved two-lane expressway which saw speeds of up to 40mph being reached without the need to even peddle. Upon reaching a tunnel that broke through the hills the guide pulled us onto a boulder infested gravel track that ran around the outside and halted for the slower members of the group to reconvene.

“Through the tunnel, there is the New Death Road as we locals like to call it. As some of you may already be aware there is construction taking place and it is currently closed to the public. All vehicles have therefore been diverted along the Old Death Road, and this is the where it starts. There are four important rules that you must abide by at all times:

1)     Never go ahead of the lead instructor.
2)     If you take off any clothing, never rest it on the ground.
3)     If you encounter any oncoming traffic, immediately stop and wait for it to safely pass.
4)     Stay as close to the cliff edge a possible. This reduces the risk of getting hit by falling rocks from above.
…oh, and remember, always keep a smile on your face.”

Starting off just a peddle-width away from a 600m drop into the canyon below, we got into formation and began our 40-mile descent. The view that rushed past the corner of my full-faced visor was some of the most spectacularly beautiful yet frightening scenery I’ve ever borne witness to, but there were so many cracks and crevices in the ground that the majority of my focus had to be placed on simply keeping my hands locked to the bars. Even the dual suspension on the bike struggled to ease the shuddering turns; heart-stopping hairpins; and crater–sized potholes, but as I wrestled to keep the two-wheels pointed in a straight line one of the instructors whizzed effortlessly back and forth with his video camera at a speed more appropriate to a Harley Davidson chopper.

I had taken a firm position at the rear of the pack with Gadams whilst the others tore off into a dust cloud below, however not long after that I passed Endy at the side of the road brushing his elbows.

“What happened, mate?” I cried, slamming on the brakes.

“Well I was flying down,” he groaned, “when I happened to look to my right and see a little man squatting against a rock with his trousers down and taking a shit. I was so distracted that my wheel jammed and I ended up going head-first over the front tyre. I’ve actually really damaged my forearm I think,” he concluded, pointing at a two-inch scrape.

I couldn’t help but laugh. From his initial reaction, you might have thought he’d been the victim of a mortar shelling.

The next person to fall into bad luck was Gadams. As we pulled over for a bite of lunch he ripped off his helmet and gloves and tossed them on the ground right at the feet of the lead instructor guide.

“What was Rule 2?” he bellowed.

“Eh...” muttered Gadams. “Always stop for oncoming traffic?”

“Never rest any clothing on the ground. The reason being that it could very easily fall over the edge or be left behind. I think a punishment is in order. It’s time for you to learn: The Llama Dance. Ladies and Gentlemen, upon completion of our descent, Gadams here will be putting on a special performance of the ‘Overdose-renowned’ llama mating ritual.”

The afternoon section of the cycle saw the road narrow to a sliver as we had to further navigate rivers, waterfalls, and even slower-moving bikers. Whilst going through a significantly muddy section the grip on my tyres gave way and I landed hard on my side. There were no injuries to report but I did break my watch face in the process. We all made it down safely without any further issues, although one could not ignore the vast number of crucifixes littering the roadside. As the fifteen of us that made the group each cracked a celebratory beer the lead guide told us that, despite the increased safety regulations placed on the mountain bike tour operators, just the summer past two Israeli backpackers had passed away after losing control at a known slippery section. Thankfully Gadams was there to lighten the mood after this harrowing tale with his special ‘Llama Dance’ performance. Fairly embarrassed, he managed to get through the instructor-led foot-stomping and hand-clapping routine in an unorthodox manner, but the general consensus was that he perhaps shouldn’t be including it in his nightclub dance-floor repertoire.

Whilst he was making a fool of himself the guide with the camera had transferred all the footage onto CDs for each of us and included them within goodie bags along with a complimentary Overdose T-shirt and Bolivian hand-crafted wrist band. We thanked him for such an extreme overdose of altitude driven adrenaline and made our way back to the city.